Notes

This shirt is intended to mimic a ready-to-wear (RTW) work blouse that I wore to death - despite having 3 of this blouse in three different colors: white, navy, and lilac.

I also thought that this shirt could be a stash buster.

There is one final version of this blouse that I want to make to completely clone the RTW work blouse. That version will split the back piece of the “no hem band” version of this shirt at center back and create a keyhole at the back neckline.

And with that, I will have made B 6214 into my workhorse blouse. Tried and True (TNT) status for sure.

Adjustments

• Full Bust Adjustment

• Rounded Back Adjustment; took out 1 1/2” (back)

• Gapping Front Neckline; took out 1/2” (front)

• Curved the front hem on all versions

• For Silky Shirt Versions: Combined shirt front and back + hem band to create 1 front and back piece w/ no hem band; used short sleeves from version D and hemmed them 1.5 - 2”

Construction Modifications / General Tips for Future Sewing

• The instructions have you complete a lot of steps in the round. On the second go, I decided to stay stitch and add bias tape in the round. It did not go well, but I also realized I didn’t fully follow the steps. So, I unpicked and went back to following the pattern instructions.

• I modified the front hem so that it is curved versus straight. I loosely followed the curve of the back, but kept the front shorter. It required some fiddling. But what a difference that made. Instead of highlighting my hips right at their widest point, the eye seems to move on and up to whatever print steals the show.

• What Worked:

  • Used size 60/8 universal needle for polyester silk fabrics and 60/8 microtex needle for polyester crepe for sewing machine; used 70/9 microtex needle for serger for both polyester silk and the polyester crepe fabric

  • Increased presser foot knob for polyester silk fabric

  • Used walking foot for polyester silk fabric

Resources Used

• How to get a fabric on grain // Threads // Youtube Tutorial

• How to Make a Gapping Neckline Pattern Adjustment // Katrina Kay // Youtube Tutorial

• How to Make a Pattern Adjustment for a Full Bust Without Darts // Threads Sewing // Youtube Tutorial

• How to Sew a Bias Tape Finish // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial

• (Sleeve Views C & D) How to Sew an Inset Sleeve // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial

• How to Sew a Curved Hem // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial

Final Thoughts

• I knew I would be making this pattern a lot. For some reason, that is how I sew now. I take one pattern and I make it over and over again. (No, I do not get bored - I’m an advanced beginner so each sitting at the sewing machine brings new adventures, mistakes, and breakthroughs). Here my current versions of this blouse:

  • Version 1 // Muslin

  • Version 2 // Wearable Muslin with modifications - mauve and lace hem band; polyester crepe

  • Version 3 // Blue shirt with shiny hem band; polyester crepe

  • Version 4 // Silky Flower Shirt, Wearable Muslin with redrafted front and back pieces (no hem band)

  • Version 5 // Black Dots on white fabric

  • Version 6 // White Background with colorful dots (red, blue, yellow, green)

  • Version 7 // White Background with blue / gray clouds, peach blobs, and black dots