M & A

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M 7974 Dress #1: Jelly Bean Dots // Modified View D // Size 10 (2022)

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Notes

I’ve seen so many versions of this dress online. I decided to give it a try. I was a bit worried about the fit of the bodice on my bust. And indeed that was a problem area for me for this pattern.

Modifications (from muslin #1)

  • Back Piece: 1” Swayback adjustment, tapering from 1” to nothing at the side seam (started 3” above bottom edge); added 1” length at lengthen lines to match adjustments to Front Top Bust Piece

  • Front Top Bust Piece: Added 1” to bottom edge; used gathering stitches to ease into place; added slightly raised wedge to accommodate an extra button and to add a bit more coverage

  • Bodice Facing: Added matching, slightly raised wedge to match the top bust piece

  • Skirt Front + Side Back and Front: Shortened by 5”

  • Skirt Back: Shortened by 4”; took in 1” at side seam (to match skirt side pieces) and tapered out to full 5” at center back [to accommodate a full seat)

  • Used the following construction methods as outlined in the Sewing Therapy tutorial:

    • Staystitched all bias cut areas

Resources

  • Cutting and sewing dress facings // Pattern.Scissors.Cloth // Website

  • M7974 Sizing, Tracing, and Altering the Pattern // Kittenish Behaviour // Youtube

  • M7974 Sew Along Tutorial // Sewing Therapy // Youtube

  • M7974 Sewing Tutorial: Raising the Neckline // Paige Handmade // Blog

  • How to Sew a Bias Tape Finish // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial

  • How To: Manual Buttons // Made to Sew // Youtube

  • Reddit // Recommendations around Automatic Buttonhole issues // Reddit Thread

Final Thoughts

The deep v-neck is really low for how I’d like to wear the dress. Next time I would make adjustments to the bust pieces to raise the v-neck. Also, the bodice fit was very difficult for me to nail. After I ended up truly analyzing the bodice fit, I realized that there was significant gaping. I hastily made some (not pretty on the inside) adjustments and ended up turning a dud (in nice fabric) into a wearable summer dress.

Next time, I would also lengthen the skirt a bit more.

Here are some tutorials I may use for next time:

  • Altering McCalls 7974 // Enchanted Rose Costumes // Youtube

  • How to Raise a Low V Neckline (M 8020) // Inside the Hem // Youtube