L 9450 McCall's: NYE Knit Dress // View D // Size 10 (2022)

PROJECT DETAILS

Status Finished
Started 12/31/2022
Finished 12/31/2022
Pattern Name L 9450, View D
Designer / Company McCall's
Size 10; To fit: 32" upper bust, 35" full bust, 26 3/4" waist, 38 1/4" Hip
Fabric Spandex
Notions All Purpose Thread
Machines Serger

Notes

A NYE dress.

Modifications

  • I took the time to check the intended stretch of the fabric used in the pattern; my own body measurements; the finished measurements of the pattern; and my the stretch percentage of my fabric.

Resources

  • How to Choose a size with Negative Ease // Brittani Bumb // Website

  • How to Determine Stretch Percentage in Fabric // Seamwork // Youtube

Final Thoughts

I really wanted a flashy dress for New Year’s Eve and other fun events. This pattern is a TNT and never lets me down when I need something quick that fits.

S 8334: Knit Dress #1 // View B // Size 10 (2022)

PROJECT DETAILS

Status Finished
Started 8/15/2022
Finished 8/17/2022
Pattern Name Simplicity 8334, View B
Designer / Company Simplicity
Size Blended 10, 12, 16; To fit: 32" upper bust, 35" full bust, 26 3/4" waist, 38 1/4" Hip
Fabric TBA Polyester / TBA Spandex
Notions All Purpose Thread, TBA yds of fusible interfacing
Machines Sewing, Serger

Notes

This is one of those dresses that sneaks up on you. I decided not to add the snaps and suddenly this dress continues to be one of my most worn and flattering pieces in my handmade wardrobe.

Modifications

  • I took the time to check the intended stretch of the fabric used in the pattern; my own body measurements; the finished measurements of the pattern; and my the stretch percentage of my fabric.

  • With the above information, I was able to use my sewing machine (straight stitch) for this dress. And it worked like magic (with my jersey needle) on almost all parts of this dress because the fabric wasn’t stretched to a point where a serger was needed to allow for the dress to slip over my body. The sleeves; however, will need to be serged next time because the sleeve is slim fitting and does need stretch to cover my arms without popping any seams.

Resources

  • Mimi G Sew Along // Simplicity Video // Youtube

  • How to Attach Snaps to Clothing // Inside the Hem // Youtube

  • How to Choose a size with Negative Ease // Brittani Bumb // Website

  • Adding Ease to Your Garment (includes info about negative ease) // American Sewing Guild // Website

    • Handy PDF cheat sheet on woven garment ease // American Sewing Guild, Plano-Chapter // PDF

  • How to Determine Stretch Percentage in Fabric // Seamwork // Youtube

Final Thoughts

This fabric is deep stash - BOLD, LOUD deep stash. Sometimes things pair perfectly, and I have no idea how or why. To me, this fabric and pattern scream 1970s house/lounge dress, and I love it.

M 7974 Dress #1: Jelly Bean Dots // Modified View D // Size 10 (2022)

PROJECT DETAILS

Status Finished
Started 6/27/2022
Finished 7/4/2022
Pattern Name McCalls 7974, View A
Designer / Company McCalls
Size 10, To fit: 32" upper bust, 35" full bust, 26 3/4" waist, 30 3/4" High Hip
Fabric "jelly bean fabric" Purchased at Mood
Notions All Purpose Thread, 13 buttons (pattern states 1/2", I used 7/16" for this dress: Red, Spectrum Warm, 5 buttons each, Made in Thailand, purchased at Joann), TBA yds of fusible interfacing
Machines Sewing, Serger

Notes

I’ve seen so many versions of this dress online. I decided to give it a try. I was a bit worried about the fit of the bodice on my bust. And indeed that was a problem area for me for this pattern.

Modifications (from muslin #1)

  • Back Piece: 1” Swayback adjustment, tapering from 1” to nothing at the side seam (started 3” above bottom edge); added 1” length at lengthen lines to match adjustments to Front Top Bust Piece

  • Front Top Bust Piece: Added 1” to bottom edge; used gathering stitches to ease into place; added slightly raised wedge to accommodate an extra button and to add a bit more coverage

  • Bodice Facing: Added matching, slightly raised wedge to match the top bust piece

  • Skirt Front + Side Back and Front: Shortened by 5”

  • Skirt Back: Shortened by 4”; took in 1” at side seam (to match skirt side pieces) and tapered out to full 5” at center back [to accommodate a full seat)

  • Used the following construction methods as outlined in the Sewing Therapy tutorial:

    • Staystitched all bias cut areas

Resources

  • Cutting and sewing dress facings // Pattern.Scissors.Cloth // Website

  • M7974 Sizing, Tracing, and Altering the Pattern // Kittenish Behaviour // Youtube

  • M7974 Sew Along Tutorial // Sewing Therapy // Youtube

  • M7974 Sewing Tutorial: Raising the Neckline // Paige Handmade // Blog

  • How to Sew a Bias Tape Finish // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial

  • How To: Manual Buttons // Made to Sew // Youtube

  • Reddit // Recommendations around Automatic Buttonhole issues // Reddit Thread

Final Thoughts

The deep v-neck is really low for how I’d like to wear the dress. Next time I would make adjustments to the bust pieces to raise the v-neck. Also, the bodice fit was very difficult for me to nail. After I ended up truly analyzing the bodice fit, I realized that there was significant gaping. I hastily made some (not pretty on the inside) adjustments and ended up turning a dud (in nice fabric) into a wearable summer dress.

Next time, I would also lengthen the skirt a bit more.

Here are some tutorials I may use for next time:

  • Altering McCalls 7974 // Enchanted Rose Costumes // Youtube

  • How to Raise a Low V Neckline (M 8020) // Inside the Hem // Youtube

N 6669: Knit Dress 1 & 2 // View A // Size 10 (2022)

PROJECT DETAILS

Status Finished
Started Dress #1: 5/31/2022; Dress #2: 6/18/2022
Finished Dress #1: 6/4/2022; Dress #2: 6/26/2022
Pattern Name New Look 6669, View A
Designer / Company New Look
Size 10, To fit: 32" upper bust, 35" full bust, 26 3/4" waist, 30 3/4" High Hip
Fabric 90% Polyester / 10% Spandex
Notions All Purpose Thread, 1 1/4 yds. of 3/4" wode elastic, 5/8 Tricot lining, 7/8 yds of fusible interfacing
Machines Sewing, Serger

Notes

I really ended up loving this dress. It had so many hidden, amazing features (not fully detailed on the pattern company website but luckily detailed by Youtuber, Vivmom Sews). The main feature is the internal bra.

I wear a 30 E-F bra, and once I adjusted the elastic band length to match my bra band length, everything about this dress came together.

I didn’t think I’d like the tie straps, but I love them. They are easy to adjust and are perfect for a hot summer day.

Modifications (from version #1)

  • Interface tricot lining before cutting (may try two different interfacing types)

    • Pellon 180 // Knit-N-Stable

      • A versatile sheer and fusible knit stabilizer; offers lightweight lining support that stretches with movement; great for stretchy seams and stabilizing collars, necklines, and hems; ideal for fabrics like silk, chamois, lame, satin, and spandex; and will not change the drape or hand of fabric once fused

    • Pellon Ek 130 Easy-Knit

      • Adds shape to collars, necklines, front facings and cuffs while maintaining drapability

  • will trim 2-4mm from neckline and armhole facings (per this tutorial)

  • add length back to pattern pieces for side, back, and front pieces

  • correct full butt issue with hem pulling up in back

  • shorten bra front and back by amount of length shortened on pattern pieces

  • make adjustments to elastic band length

Resources

  • Cutting and sewing dress facings // Pattern.Scissors.Cloth // Website

  • Install an All-in-One Facing // Threads Sewing // Youtube

Final Thoughts

  • This dress pattern is a keeper and a possible TNT. The princess seams, the ties at the shoulder, and the internal bra make this dress extremely wearable and flattering. Love it!

Vogue 8146 V2: Dress

PROJECT DETAILS

Status Finished
Started 4/11/2022
Finished 5/30/2022
Pattern Name Vogue 8146
Size 10 [final],12 [muslin #1]
Fabric Thrifted Mystery Polyester Twill Fabric
Notions Thread, zipper
Machines Sewing, Serger

NOTES

I decided to take a break from pants making. And so, on a fabric buying whim, I decided to start sewing V 8146.

  • First try: Traced and cut out a straight size 12 dress. There were some fitting issues: gapping under arm seams and neckline; bust darts too high; petite dress fold lines; and swayback

  • Second try: Traced and cut out a straight size 10 dress.

  • Third try: Size 10 with modifications:

    • Reduced the length of the slit from 10” to 7.5:”

    • Bring in back french darts to account for swayback

    • Adjust neckline by 1/2” on back piece; Actually, I think I have a rounded back and I decided to follow the rounded back adjustment tutorial I found on Youtube

Resources Used

Modifications

  • Petite adjustment (above the waistline only)

  • Rounded back adjustment

  • Added 2” at lengthen line

  • Shorten the split from 10” to 7.5” and adjust the circles

  • Move the first circle up by 1.5” and then stitch above the metal stopper

  • Place zipper tape higher and ensure that it starts near the top zipper stopper to prevent a gap at the neckline

  • Added 1/2” at hip

FINAL THOUGHTS

I originally bought some beautiful, easter feeling tweed. Alas, I got overwhelmed with matching the fabric pattern. So, I decided to use up some mystery polyester twill-ish fabric and to just get this thing sewn.

I was able to work through my sewing block, and I ended up liking the end result. I made the dress long, which means that it works best with heels. If I make a future version of this pattern, I will make one that is shorter so I have more shoe options. The black fabric (pictured) is sitting in my stash and waiting for another go at this pattern.