PROJECT DETAILS

    Status
    Finished
  
    Started
    4/11/2022
  
    Finished
    5/30/2022
  
    Pattern Name
    Vogue 8146
  
    Size
    10 [final],12 [muslin #1]
  
    Fabric
    Thrifted Mystery Polyester Twill Fabric
  
    Notions
    Thread, zipper
  
    Machines
    Sewing, Serger

NOTES

I decided to take a break from pants making. And so, on a fabric buying whim, I decided to start sewing V 8146.

First try: Traced and cut out a straight size 12 dress. There were some fitting issues: gapping under arm seams and neckline; bust darts too high; petite dress fold lines; and swayback
Second try: Traced and cut out a straight size 10 dress.
Third try: Size 10 with modifications:
- Reduced the length of the slit from 10” to 7.5:”
- Bring in back french darts to account for swayback
- Adjust neckline by 1/2” on back piece; Actually, I think I have a rounded back and I decided to follow the rounded back adjustment tutorial I found on Youtube

Resources Used

The Rounded Back Adjustment // Alexandra Morgan // Youtube tutorial
How To: Dart Manipulation (Pattern Cutting) // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial
How To: True | Truing a Dart (Sewing) // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial
The Sway Back Adjustment 3 Ways // Alexandra Morgan // Youtube tutorial *
*Realized that the issue was that my hip is low and needed more room
How To: Pattern Match Fabric for a Garment // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial
How to Match Plaids, Stripes, and Large Patterns // Seamwork // Website tutorial
How To: Thread Tracing // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial
Thread Tracing and Tailor’s Tacks // Sally’s Custom Couture // Youtube tutorial
Sewing with Tweed // Mood Fabrics // Website post

Modifications

Petite adjustment (above the waistline only)
Rounded back adjustment
Added 2” at lengthen line
Shorten the split from 10” to 7.5” and adjust the circles
Move the first circle up by 1.5” and then stitch above the metal stopper
Place zipper tape higher and ensure that it starts near the top zipper stopper to prevent a gap at the neckline
Added 1/2” at hip

FINAL THOUGHTS

I originally bought some beautiful, easter feeling tweed. Alas, I got overwhelmed with matching the fabric pattern. So, I decided to use up some mystery polyester twill-ish fabric and to just get this thing sewn.

I was able to work through my sewing block, and I ended up liking the end result. I made the dress long, which means that it works best with heels. If I make a future version of this pattern, I will make one that is shorter so I have more shoe options. The black fabric (pictured) is sitting in my stash and waiting for another go at this pattern.

PROJECT DETAILS

    Status
    Completed
  
    Started
    March 2019
  
    Completed
    December 2020
  
    Pattern Name
    Kalle
  
    Designer / Company
    Closet Case Patterns
  
    Size
    6
    34" x 27" x 36"
  
    Fabric
    Polyester and Cotton Mix
    1 yd.
    pre-washed, wash cold, lay out to dry
  
    Notions
    All Purpose Thread, interfacing, zipper, 9 (1/2") buttons - used 8
  
    Machines
    Sewing, Serger

NOTES

This dress pattern and fabric was originally purchased to be worn on a trip to Italy. The trip was amazing, but unfortunately I did not have this dress finished in time. The material is most likely a polyester mix (?), I remember purchasing 4 yards due to the lovely unicorn pattern. It is certainly a busy, playful, and boisterous fabric design. Perfect for my “around town” wardrobe. I also am finding that I love, love, love denim look fabric. More please!

RESOURCES USED

How To Make the Shirtdress | Closet Core Patterns (formerly Closet Case Patterns) // Sewalong // This resource was worth its weight in gold. I was able to use it for assistance in the areas that I was bound to get hung up over in the pattern. My only suggestion would be to add an “adding buttons/buttonholes” tutorial.
Button and Buttonhole Positioning | American Sewing Guild // November 8, 2019 blog article
Button and Buttonhole Positioning | Threads Magazine // How To: [10/17/2008] The Most Important Button Position Is the One on the Bust Point Line
Button and Buttonhole Positioning | Sewaholic // 2/25/2015 Shirtmaking: Button Placement & Buttonhole Tips

FINAL THOUGHTS

Important Tip: Use Fray Check before cutting open buttonholes with seam ripper.