PROJECT DETAILS

    Status
    Completed
  
    Started
    August 4, 2021
  
    Finished
    March 28, 2022
  
    Pattern Name
    Simplicty 8514
  
    Designer / Company
    Simplicity
  
    Size
    14
  
    Fabric
    Mystery Fabric, Poly Twill; 2.5 yds.
  
    Notions
    Thread, 90/14 universal needle
  
    Machines
    Sewing, Serger

NOTES

I decided to add a pair of pants to my work capsule wardrobe. However, I knew that first I would need to spend some time on a muslin. I had hoped that these pants would be a wearable muslin, but that’s not the case. After setting these aside, I think I will revisit whether I need to size down, while keeping some of my original adjustments as a guide for fit.

Resources Used

How to Measure Your Body & Pattern… // Lifting Pins and Needles // Youtube Tutorial
How to Alter the Back Crotch Rise // Sure Fit Designs // Youtube Tutorial

Modifications

Back Pants Pattern Pieces

1/4” waist adjustment side back pieces
scooped out back crotch curve
need to add 1 1/8” full seat adjustment to back and side back pieces
need to wedge back waist band by 1/8” each side for (1/4”) adjustment

Front Pants Pattern Pieces

shortened crotch curve by 1 5/8” (front crotch piece)
widen inseam (by 1/4”) at top of thigh and blend into seam line
take out 1/4” each front and side front pieces (1” total)
need to wedge front waist band by 1/4” each side for (1/2”) adjustment
knock knee adjustment front crotch piece adjustment only (1st try)
- Method: Singer: Sewing Pants that Fit
  - Slide pattern piece along knee line perpendicular to grainline;
  - move pattern piece towards inseam
  - adjust front and back an equal amount (first try: 1” adjustment)

Overall

used 5/8” side seam versus 1” side seams

FINAL THOUGHTS

This was good try at a wearable muslin, and I look forward to revisiting this pattern. I learned a lot and had fun, so this will not be my last attempt at making pants with the goal of perfecting the fit.