N 6669: Knit Dress 1 & 2 // View A // Size 10 (2022)

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	Finished
Started	Dress #1: 5/31/2022; Dress #2: 6/18/2022
Finished	Dress #1: 6/4/2022; Dress #2: 6/26/2022
Pattern Name	New Look 6669, View A
Designer / Company	New Look
Size	10, To fit: 32" upper bust, 35" full bust, 26 3/4" waist, 30 3/4" High Hip
Fabric	90% Polyester / 10% Spandex
Notions	All Purpose Thread, 1 1/4 yds. of 3/4" wode elastic, 5/8 Tricot lining, 7/8 yds of fusible interfacing
Machines	Sewing, Serger

Notes

I really ended up loving this dress. It had so many hidden, amazing features (not fully detailed on the pattern company website but luckily detailed by Youtuber, Vivmom Sews). The main feature is the internal bra.

I wear a 30 E-F bra, and once I adjusted the elastic band length to match my bra band length, everything about this dress came together.

I didn’t think I’d like the tie straps, but I love them. They are easy to adjust and are perfect for a hot summer day.

Modifications (from version #1)

• Interface tricot lining before cutting (may try two different interfacing types)

  • Pellon 180 // Knit-N-Stable

    • A versatile sheer and fusible knit stabilizer; offers lightweight lining support that stretches with movement; great for stretchy seams and stabilizing collars, necklines, and hems; ideal for fabrics like silk, chamois, lame, satin, and spandex; and will not change the drape or hand of fabric once fused

  • Pellon Ek 130 Easy-Knit

    • Adds shape to collars, necklines, front facings and cuffs while maintaining drapability

• will trim 2-4mm from neckline and armhole facings (per this tutorial)

• add length back to pattern pieces for side, back, and front pieces

• correct full butt issue with hem pulling up in back

• shorten bra front and back by amount of length shortened on pattern pieces

• make adjustments to elastic band length

Resources

• Cutting and sewing dress facings // Pattern.Scissors.Cloth // Website

• Install an All-in-One Facing // Threads Sewing // Youtube

Final Thoughts

• This dress pattern is a keeper and a possible TNT. The princess seams, the ties at the shoulder, and the internal bra make this dress extremely wearable and flattering. Love it!

Vanilla Hand dyed, Handspun Socks

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	FO
Started	5/5/2022
Completed	6/25/2022
Pattern Name	Vanilla Handspun Socks
Designer	Me
Yarn	76 grams // Hand dyed, Handspun // Paradise Fibers Premium Sock Blend
Needles	US 1 // 2.25mm, 40" circular

NOTES

These are my first hand dyed, handspun socks. It was quite the process, but I must say that I feel very cosy when I am wearing these time intensive socks.

PATTERN NOTES {Vanilla Toe-Up Socks]

• CO 8 (Judy’s Magic Cast On)

• US 1, 2.25mm, two-at-a-time socks, magic loop

• Alternate between Increase rounds [M1R, M1L (both needles)] and Knit rows until 44 stitches (22 stitches each needle)

• Knit rows until foot reaches 7.5”

• Fleegle Heel (used the tutorials under resources)

• After heel rows, add increases to each needle (every other row) until there are 48 stitches (26 stitches each needle) — to best fit my ankle width

• Knit until I like the sock length (or to use up as much yarn as possible)

• Finish with a 1x1 rib and use tubular bind-off for stretchy rib finish

RESOURCES

• Fleegle Heel + Fleegle Heel No Holes

• SSP // Very Pink Knits // Youtube

• Tubular Bind Off in the Round // Knitting with Suzanne Bryan // Youtube

Final Thoughts

This is my go-to vanilla sock pattern. One change to consider, if I could do it again, I think I would add 4 more stitches after the heel to give a bit more room for the 1x1 rib or go up several sizes of knitting needles after the heel.

Vogue 8146 V2: Dress

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	Finished
Started	4/11/2022
Finished	5/30/2022
Pattern Name	Vogue 8146
Size	10 [final],12 [muslin #1]
Fabric	Thrifted Mystery Polyester Twill Fabric
Notions	Thread, zipper
Machines	Sewing, Serger

NOTES

I decided to take a break from pants making. And so, on a fabric buying whim, I decided to start sewing V 8146.

• First try: Traced and cut out a straight size 12 dress. There were some fitting issues: gapping under arm seams and neckline; bust darts too high; petite dress fold lines; and swayback

• Second try: Traced and cut out a straight size 10 dress.

• Third try: Size 10 with modifications:

  • Reduced the length of the slit from 10” to 7.5:”

  • Bring in back french darts to account for swayback

  • Adjust neckline by 1/2” on back piece; Actually, I think I have a rounded back and I decided to follow the rounded back adjustment tutorial I found on Youtube

Resources Used

• The Rounded Back Adjustment // Alexandra Morgan // Youtube tutorial

• How To: Dart Manipulation (Pattern Cutting) // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial

• How To: True | Truing a Dart (Sewing) // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial

• The Sway Back Adjustment 3 Ways // Alexandra Morgan // Youtube tutorial *

  *Realized that the issue was that my hip is low and needed more room

• How To: Pattern Match Fabric for a Garment // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial

• How to Match Plaids, Stripes, and Large Patterns // Seamwork // Website tutorial

• How To: Thread Tracing // Made to Sew // Youtube tutorial

• Thread Tracing and Tailor’s Tacks // Sally’s Custom Couture // Youtube tutorial

• Sewing with Tweed // Mood Fabrics // Website post

Modifications

• Petite adjustment (above the waistline only)

• Rounded back adjustment

• Added 2” at lengthen line

• Shorten the split from 10” to 7.5” and adjust the circles

• Move the first circle up by 1.5” and then stitch above the metal stopper

• Place zipper tape higher and ensure that it starts near the top zipper stopper to prevent a gap at the neckline

• Added 1/2” at hip

FINAL THOUGHTS

I originally bought some beautiful, easter feeling tweed. Alas, I got overwhelmed with matching the fabric pattern. So, I decided to use up some mystery polyester twill-ish fabric and to just get this thing sewn.

I was able to work through my sewing block, and I ended up liking the end result. I made the dress long, which means that it works best with heels. If I make a future version of this pattern, I will make one that is shorter so I have more shoe options. The black fabric (pictured) is sitting in my stash and waiting for another go at this pattern.

Tip Top Tank // Maker Maker [Free Pattern]

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	FO
Started	5/17/2022
Completed	5/25/2022
Pattern Name	Tip Top Tank
Designer	Maker Maker
Size	M
My Measurements	Bust: 35" Waist: 27" Hips: 38.25"
Yarn	Galileo // Sport Weight Yarn // Knit Picks; 4 balls, 131 yds./50g, Color: Calliope (T065)
Needles	US 3 (3.25mm) // US 4 (3.5mm) 40" Circular

NOTES

This was a breeze to knit. This is also my first “summer” knit garment. Summers in Anchorage, Alaska are pretty mild, so I can wear sweaters year round (especially on cooler summer nights). However, as soon as I saw this tank I knew that I would like to try to knit it.

MODIFICATIONS

• 1x1 tubular cast on for both hems

  • Used Andrea Mowry’s Cast On

  • After Cast On, 1st Row: Purl, Slip 1 knit stitch (as if to purl); 2nd Row: Knit, Slip 1 purl stitch; Row 3: Purl, Slip 1 knit stitch (as if to purl); Row 4: Knit, Slip 1 purl stitch Be sure that the stitches (purl and knit) are not twisted on the needle. If they are knit, purl, or slip into back leg to untwist.

• Used a genius modification by Recreates (on Ravelry) to raise the back by 6 rows

RESOURCES

• Tubular Cast On (Flat) // Andrea Mowry // Youtube

• Tubular Cast On // Suzanne Bryan // Youtube

• Ravelry User Recreates’ Tip Top Tank Modification to the back

• Three Needle Bind Off:

  • Martha Lyons // Three Needle bind off for shoulders // Youtube

  • Three-Needle Bind Off (3NBO) Basics // Technique Tuesday // Youtube

  • Very Pink Knits // Youtube

Final Thoughts

This pattern is one of the best. Free, fun, and a breeze to knit — I loved wearing it almost as much as I loved knitting it. Almost.

"Arata" Sweater // Jennifer Steingass

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	FO (finished object)
Started	3/13/2022
Completed	4/24/2022
Pattern Name	Arata
Designer	Jennifer Steingass
Yarn	Knit Picks Palette // Pennyroyal (MC), Lantana (CC1), Indigo Heather (CC2); 6 balls, 231 yds. each
Needles	US 2 (2.75mm), US 3 (3.25mm), US 4 (3.5mm), US 5 (3.75mm); 32" & 40" Circulars

NOTES

I originally was going to use 4 colors, but the 4th color that I purchased - Knit Picks Palette Hyacinth - was too close in value to Lantana. So, I decided to only use 3 colors. This also reduced the number of three color rows.

MODIFICATIONS

• 1x1 tubular cast off ribbing (sleeves & hem)

• Sleeves are 3/4 length, with no decreases and 1x1 tubular cast off

• Redid the neckline:

  • Cut off the neckline (and all of the short rows) and used US Size 1 (2.25mm) needles to cast on a row

  • Row 2: K5, K2tog around

  • Row 3: K8, K2tog around

  • Row 4: (switched to US 3 needles) Knit 4 German short rows

  • Row 5: Knit around

  • Row 6: cast off

RESOURCES

• Inv-L increase // Jennifer Steingass // Instagram (video)

• How To Knit: German Short Row // Brooklyn Tweed // Youtube

• Tubular CO in the Round (1x1 Ribbing) // Knitting with Suzanne Bryan // Youtube

Final Thoughts

I really like the colorwork; however, I’ve decided that from now on I will need to do a provisional cast on for top down necklines. As I do not love having to cut into my knits if the neckline is a wonky fit on me.

Vanilla Fingerless Mitts - Malabrigo Lace Yarn

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	FO
Started	5/8/2022
Completed	5/13/2022
Pattern Name	Vanilla Fingerless Mitts
Designer	Me
Yarn	Malabrigo Lace // Leftovers // Pearl & Pink Frost
Needles	US 4 // 3.5mm, 40" circular

NOTES

I have so many bits and bobs when it comes to left over yarn. So, I decided to knit my own vanilla fingerless mitt pattern.

PATTERN NOTES {Vanilla Fingerless Mitts]

• CO 36 (Crochet Tubular Cast On, two-at-a-time)

• US 4, 3.5mm

Final Thoughts

• These came out a little short, but are very well-used. I didn’t take the first “FO” photo until after I had worn them almost daily. They are pilled, but still lovely, soft, and warm.

Butterick 6214: Blouse(s) // View C // Size XS (2022)

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	Completed
Started	3/28/2022
Finished	4/9/2022
Pattern Name	Butterick 6214, View C
Designer / Company	Butterick
Size	XS, To fit: 32" upper bust, 35" full bust, 26 3/4" waist, 30 3/4" High Hip
Fabric	polyester / silk-like fabrics
Notions	All Purpose Thread, 1.5 yds. 1/2" Single Fold Bias Tape
Machines	Sewing, Serger

Notes

This blouse has reached TNT status with the modifications that I’ve made over many tries. I document those modifications and adjustments in a previous blog post.

Final Thoughts

• I really love and get a ton of wear out of these blouses. Next time I will add in some more solid colors in navy, black, and white/cream.

  • Version 1 // Thrifted Bed Sheet #1

  • Version 2 // Thrifted Bed Sheet #2

  • Version 3 // Blue Triangle Silky fabric

  • Version 4 // Women Walking Dogs Silky fabric

Layer Cake Mitts - Fingerless Mittens

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	Completed
Started	Start #1: 12/20/2020; Start #2: 2/10/2021
Completed	Finish #1: 1/17/2021; Finish #2: 4/9/2022
Pattern Name	Layer Cake Mitts
Designer	Susan B. Anderson
Yarn	1 skein Madeline Tosh Light // Liquid Gold
Needles	2.5mm, 40" circular

NOTES

I started off making these fingerless mittens according to the pattern. This is my second time making a Susan B Anderson pattern. After knitting four rows, I knew that I would need to alter this pattern for fit.

MODIFICATIONS

• I made gauge with my yarn.

• The smallest number of stitches for cast on was too big for my hands. Proportionally, I do have small hands. I kept the needle size - 2.5mm - but reduced the number of stitches to cast on to 40. This produced a close fitting fingerless glove (with negative ease).

• I am always on the search for the perfect cast on and bind offs. Lately, it has become an obsession. I decided to use a tubular cast on by combining two youtube tutorials. As I use the two-at-a-time method to knit pairs - I simply love this method - it was a bit finicky at first to adapt the two-at-a-time method. It required putting the first crochet cast on, using 1/2 the stitches and the second mitt with 1/4 crochet cast on stitches.

• I reduced the number of thumb gussets to correspond to the reduction in the cast of stitches and to fit my thumb.

• I removed the bobble before each thumb during the gusset portion, so that the bobble placement (slightly different on each side of the thumb) didn’t bother me.

  • I was slightly annoyed that the bobbles were not symmetric on the thumb gusset. One bobble is right beside the thumb gusset and the second bobble (on the underside of the hand) is four stitches past the thumb gusset increases.

RESOURCES

• 2x2 Tubular Cast On [in the round] // (1) Sockmatician Youtube tutorial // (2) Suzanne Bryan Youtube tutorial

• No Holes at the thumb gusset // Suzanne Bryan // Youtube Tutorial [It’s for sweaters, but works well for mittens and gloves too.]

Final Thoughts

• Now the I have the blueprint for my hand specifications related to this pattern, it may be worth asking if bobbles on the palm are realistic - for my lifestyle - given how these mitts will be worn. Only time - and an opportunity to wear these mitts out - will tell.

Simplicity 8514: Pants // View B // Amazing Fit Collection

PROJECT DETAILS

Status	Completed
Started	August 4, 2021
Finished	March 28, 2022
Pattern Name	Simplicty 8514
Designer / Company	Simplicity
Size	14
Fabric	Mystery Fabric, Poly Twill; 2.5 yds.
Notions	Thread, 90/14 universal needle
Machines	Sewing, Serger

NOTES

I decided to add a pair of pants to my work capsule wardrobe. However, I knew that first I would need to spend some time on a muslin. I had hoped that these pants would be a wearable muslin, but that’s not the case. After setting these aside, I think I will revisit whether I need to size down, while keeping some of my original adjustments as a guide for fit.

Resources Used

• How to Measure Your Body & Pattern… // Lifting Pins and Needles // Youtube Tutorial

• How to Alter the Back Crotch Rise // Sure Fit Designs // Youtube Tutorial

Modifications

Back Pants Pattern Pieces

• 1/4” waist adjustment side back pieces

• scooped out back crotch curve

• need to add 1 1/8” full seat adjustment to back and side back pieces

• need to wedge back waist band by 1/8” each side for (1/4”) adjustment

Front Pants Pattern Pieces

• shortened crotch curve by 1 5/8” (front crotch piece)

• widen inseam (by 1/4”) at top of thigh and blend into seam line

• take out 1/4” each front and side front pieces (1” total)

• need to wedge front waist band by 1/4” each side for (1/2”) adjustment

• knock knee adjustment front crotch piece adjustment only (1st try)

  • Method: Singer: Sewing Pants that Fit

    • Slide pattern piece along knee line perpendicular to grainline;

    • move pattern piece towards inseam

    • adjust front and back an equal amount (first try: 1” adjustment)

Overall

• used 5/8” side seam versus 1” side seams

FINAL THOUGHTS

• This was good try at a wearable muslin, and I look forward to revisiting this pattern. I learned a lot and had fun, so this will not be my last attempt at making pants with the goal of perfecting the fit.